2025-09-30 Headlight and Fog Switches

In this post, I am not going into great detail about the refurbishment of the fog and the headlight switch.  The procedure was the same, for the most part, as the hazard switch.  

Fog Switch 

Before even pulling it apart, there is evidence of it not being in good shape.  

Now, some parts cleaner and a rub down to get rid of most of the crap.   Then used a scotch-brite pad and more parts cleaner.

This looks so much better.  All the components were put back together with dielectric grease. The switch face itself needed some cleaning 

You have no clue who, or what, is on them.  They are dirty and need cleaning.  Again, parts cleaner and scotch-bite to clean the dirt.  The next step was to use Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and rub it clean and polish it up.

And cleaning the outer frame and reassembling.  Good to be back in service

Headlight Switch

The next to tackle was the headlight switch.  The outer case where the locking tabs are is broken, still there, but broken.  Needed to be a little ginger with it.  Again, dirty and dried grease, etc.  

How many years of dirt, etc, on this switch?  Obviously, the most used of the three.  

Dirty and oxidized

These were stuck in the switch from the dried grease.  They got pulled, and the springs and plungers got cleaned and greased up

This switch, again, like the others, needed a good cleaning.  The front head needed careful cleaning.  Unlike the TR3a switches, where I could dig out the old white paint and redo it, this is much more challenging.  Decided to simply clean the face.  Again, parts cleaner to get rid of the dirt, and using a pick to very, very gently dig out the dirt from the face.   Then the compound is used to polish and seal.  I think it is an improvement.  Digging out more would be paint.  

Dash Panel

All the switches are clean, the dash panel black tape was replaced that was used to hold the light bar in place :-P  It looks like there are grease marks on the panel, yes, and they were whipped clean :)

Conclusion 

Hazards: Works perfectly 

Fog: The rear fog light indicator activated when switched on.  This never happened. So good???

Headlights: They still work, but now they will not flip down????   Did I misassemble the switch?  The panel is not screwed back in, so I may have to pull the switch apart again :-(  

Indicators:  They still didn't work after this, but did manage to find the flasher unit.  It got replaced with an electronic one. I HAVE INDICATORS!   They worked when I test drove the car.  I guess the unit just gave up

2025-09-30 Hazard Switch

After confirming the indicator "module" is working, the indicators didn't.   Asking the great internet for thoughts, a couple of options were provided 

• Take apart the hazard switch and clean it
• Replace the flasher unit.  

Decided to clean up the hazard switch.  

The Dash Panel 

It turns out, of the three Triumphs I own, this is one of the easier to get switches out of.  

Two regular screws hold the panel, and then, using a panel pry tool, I simply disengage from the dash.  The harness connectors were a bit of a fight; I don't think they have been touched since they were first assembled.  

There are supposed to be two speed nuts; this one had one.   Off it comes.

The Switch 

The general condition looks good...

The pins look clean!

You can pry off the outer casing.   Be very careful.  On examination, I notice a small crack in the corner. 

The Guts of the Matter

Once that is off, the "switch head" can be pried off.  Lift very gently the side tabs, and the head comes off.  Be very careful, there are spring-loaded actuators.  Now, more than likely, they are gummed up and stuck.  

Now, looking at the base, the contacts are all gummed up.

The top contact lifts off

This needs a cleaning!

The base contacts need a good clean as well.  A little parts cleaner, a scotch-brite pad, and a couple of Q-tips make the contacts all clean again. 

The same for the bridge contact plate.  

Remove the actuators from the head and clean them thoroughly.  These are really small.   They had lots of buildup.  So, lots of rubbing between the fingers and a cloth

Just built up gunk and cleaned the inside of the head with a Q-tip.  Reassembled with some dielectric grease to hold them together  

Some Assembly

The actuator plate is not bidirectional.  There is one connection point, and thankfully, I took reference pictures LOL 

Again, more dielectric grease here.  Then, to put the head back on 

Testing and Final Assembly

I wanted to make sure it worked before putting the outer frame back on, as it had a crack, and I wanted to ensure it needed to be put back on only once. 

The hazards still work, and work even better.  Good strong 'blink'.  But the indicator is still not working.  Now, the bulbs are on, the indicator in the dashboard is on, and the lights themselves are on.  This is a step in the right direction.  

Time to move on to the next piece in the line.  After cleaning the outside of the switch with some polishing compound to remove dirt, etc, it is ready for service again. 

Don't forget the grease on the pins as well.

Wrap-Up

Today’s work: tore down, cleaned, and tested the hazard switch to ensure it is not the reason for the failing indicators 

Key takeaway: this switch is a key part of the indicators, and 40+ years of grease and guck cause issues.   Remove one of the tools used by the Prince of Darkness 

Next steps: I guess tracking down the flasher unit that can be either near the steering column or the choke handle assembly.   Pull the steering column cover apart and clean the various lever stalk contacts

2025-09-29 Indicator Lights

I am waiting on some parts to be delivered.  I needed to tackle an electrical gremlin.  Yes, I know Lucas has come to visit.  

In this case, the indicator ( "turn signal," or "blinker" as you see fit ) is not working.  This usually indicates a bad bulb or a bad ground.  Again, duh! 

When the headlights are on, the front right running light is very dim as well.  This screams a poor ground.  Always fix the grounds before anything else.  Checked the harness in the engine bay, the black plug is for the indicators.  There are three different 3-wire plugs, so they colour-coded them.  okay. 

Step one: What do I have

I figured I needed to pull the indicator housing and the harness out for a good look.  This was easy, too easy.   I would have expected the harness to be tied to something, not just dangling.  Deal with that later.  On the bench, this is what I have

The chrome reflector was peeling off. 

And very dirty

Electrical tape on a harness, especially when it is falling off, concerns me.  It has been there a while, and electric tape is not the best for environments like inside the front bumper.  

The connector itself.... well.... 

A lovely shade of green.  At least the connector housing is not broken.  

Step Two: Clean up

Cutting the butt connectors off the harness.  Everyone into the pool!  The sonic pool.  The intent was to get the dirt and grime off.  And it worked.   

Yes one of the mounting screws broke off.  More later on that

But being in the sonic cleaner shows how the chrome is no longer viable.   Removed all the wires, etc, and off to the media blaster with the main body

After the blaster and another quick round in the sonic cleaner, I was left with this.  A very clean pot-metal indicator housing.   

I did find the bad ground, it was the ground!   Somewhere in the past, someone had taken a bullet end, pushed the wire through the end hole, and simply folded it and pushed it back in the frame.  Might have been 'ok' when done, but over the years, it had loosened.  Solution: clean up the connector and replace the wire with a new one, and solder it in place.  

The wire inside was soldered, and the connector and wire were coated in flux to make a clean connection. This is not coming loose anytime soon.  

The main indicator wire didn't have heat shrink tubing on it, so it got an upgrade.  I am of the strong opinion that only dual-wall heat shrink should be used.  Two reasons: the glue makes a watertight seal, and it replaces the strength ( increases it in some cases ) of the original insulation.

Step Three: Rebuild

I have used chrome paint on indicators in the past and got decent results.   This time I used shiny aluminium tape.  Yes, the stuff used for sealing ductwork.   The only caveat in using it is that the surface must be absolutely clean.  Parts cleaner a couple of times.  

Then make sections, line the housing with the silver tape

Using a cloth to rub it in and minimize the creases.   Also, in this shot, the indicator side of the plugs and harness is back in.  

Now to test to see if it works at this stage.  If it doesn't, there's no need to continue.   Using the 12V power supply

That was crazy bright.  The picture doesn't do it justice.  Okay, try with the lens

Liking the results.

Step Four: The Harness

After cutting the butt connector off, the connector end of the harness was given a sonic clean to get rid of all the dirt and grime, etc.  THEN!!!  It went to the media blaster.  WHY?????  The connector got a blast of glass media at 15psi, and it did the following 

• Cleaned the overspray paint off the connector
• Cleaned the pins in the connector 

After a quick round in the cleaner again to ensure nothing was left, and parts cleaner spray to dry everything off, I am left with this.  

Step Five: Reconnection

I still have three wires to merge together again.  My requirements are waterproof and electrically clean.   

In the past 5-8 years, the "Solder Seal Wire Connectors" have become all the rage.  While they are convenient, I have two issues with them

• You need to make sure the wires are absolutely clean.  Like all solder joints, dirty wire will not work.
• The casing is thin and does heat shrink in place to provide what appears to be a water-tight seal.  Most times, it gets too hot with the heat gun because you are trying to melt the solder and can melt holes.   It happens no matter how careful you try to be.   

How dare I use them?  Well, they provide a decent electrical/mechanical joint.  Easier than needing three hands to hold the wire and solder.   BUT, then I reinforce and ensure the watertight connection by surrounding it with dual-wall heat-shrink tubing

First the connector

Then the heat-shrink.  Once you see the glue pushed out the end.  Good to go.  

Still need to make a neoprene gasket between the housing and the lens, and put in a replacement mounting screw.  The old one needed to be wiggled out.  

Step Six: Conclusion 

Attached it to the car, not reinstalled, and it was bright.  Will do the other side to match.  But it didn't solve my indicator problem...... 

Wrap-Up

Today’s work: rebuilt and tested the indicator lights, step by step.

Key takeaway: even the smallest connection points (like ground wires) can cause big headaches if overlooked.

Next steps: moving on to the dash switches to make sure everything ties together.